Thanksgiving Pies
Kellee made a pumpkin pie (and an apple too, but after describing the particular details of the making of the pie—e.g., pink lady apples and no others are to be used—she told us she would be holding back that pie from us and sharing only the pumpkin, and we wept and drank more wine, 14 bottles in total.) We would have gotten Kellee’s apple pie, because Dennie was going to be bringing a pumpkin pie; Dennie, however, made an emergency stop that sent the pie flying forward and down, upside-down on the floor of the back seat, and Kellee felt a turkey dinner without a pumpkin pie would be a travesty, so she saved her apple pie for another gathering, the following day. The funny thing about a pumpkin pie is that it tastes pretty much the same no matter where it comes from. Kellee says she uses the canned Libby pumpkin, but even the gourmet pie that Jamie Blake made painstakingly from fresh pumpkin tasted pretty close (she says) to the pie that one might buy at the grocery store. Pumpkin pie is always good, never great or bad. Gina B. also brought a pie, a mostly blueberry with some raspberry. She was trying out a new kind of crust and it was crispier than other crusts and held its own against the liquid of the filling though it burned on the edges. The pie turned our tongues and teeth blue and received the rare compliment from my mother: "I wish somebody would leave us the rest of that pie," Susanna said. Gina did. One can be sure that crust was vegetarian, since Gina is vegetarian. My pies are generally not vegetarian because I use a half-lard and half-butter crust, though if I am feeding a vegetarian I will go all-butter. (Lard, as you know, is pig fat.) My grandmother used all lard, probably because her mother and her mother's mother used all lard and because lard is cheap. Her crusts were never flaky, because my grandfather thought a pie should be something you can carry in your pocket and pick up in your hand. So for him, my grandmother overworked the dough. My pal Heidi still uses lard crusts, but her husband Adam prefers to eat pie off a plate and so she produces fine flaky crusts. Heidi said her grandmother, who is Welsh and lived to be almost a hundred, made all-lard crusts, and that is basically what it boils down to with pies for many of us women--we make pies that are only slightly removed from the pies of our youth. I make apple pies and I prefer tart Jonathon apples as my grandmother did. Kellee makes a vegetable shortening (Crisco) crust, and she told me that was what her mother’s mother always used. The conservative bearing may well be only for the females. Christopher has been making pecan pies these last few years, using maple syrup or golden syrup instead of corn syrup, and he says there is nothing sentimental about his venture into pies. His mother barely cooked, and the only pies his father made were steak and kidney pies shipped in tins from England, and when they cooked, he says, the whole apartment smelled like urine.

